Saturday, October 02, 2004 5:25 AM
by
will
So you want to study Chinese in Beijing…
The pros and cons of Worldlink Education
Last spring, for selfish personal reasons, I quit my perfectly good job
in Singapore and abandoned my wife for three months to come to Beijing
and study Mandarin. I am now living and working in Beijing, along with
my wife, so I guess the whole crazy stunt can be considered a success.
Before I came to Beijing I spent a lot of time trying to figure out
exactly how I was going to study here. I had two years of Mandarin
instruction in Singapore, so I wasn't starting from scratch, but my
skills were elementary. I had no idea which language programs or
schools in Beijing were reputable or what would be a fair price to pay.
I spent a lot of time on the web and wrote to acquaintances living in
Beijing.
I got a lot of different opinions. Some people told me to come to
Beijing, hire a tutor and work one-on-one. Some people told me to
attend classes. I heard BLCU (Beijing Language and Culture University)
was great. I heard BLCU sucked. It didn't add up to a really coherent
picture. One problem was a shortage of useful information on the web.
It was easy to find websites for Wordlink Education, BLCU, the Taipei
Language Institute and other programs with registration information,
classes, fees and so forth. What I couldn't find was third-party
reviews, real testimonials from students or critiques by people who had
been through the programs.
Ultimately I chose Worldlink Education's Beijing language program, and
instruction at their in-house school, the Beijing Chinese Language
Academy. Worldlink seemed reputable and well organized and their office
in Australia, through which I did registration, was responsive and
quick. I chose their in-house classes rather than BLCU instruction
(which they also offer) because of the smaller class sizes.
On the whole, the experience was pretty good, but not perfect. I posted
this article so that people who are considering Worldlink for study in
Beijing know exactly what they will and won't get from the program, and
what kind of an experience they can expect.
I am also including a little bit about Beijing itself. I am not going
to write about the city in detail. Others have done that, including me
in my China Diary blog (www.imagethief.com/china). Also, I am not an
old China hand by any stretch. My total time in Beijing is now a year.
But I've been in Asia for nearly ten years, so I have some perspective.
All of this is based on my own experiences. Other people will have
different opinions, and your mileage may vary. Shop around, and don't
make your decision based just on what I have to say. I invite other
Worldlink Beijing alums to add their own comments, good or bad, using
the form at the bottom of this page.
Beijing
“Motherfuckers,” muttered the American in line behind me, “I fucking
hate the Chinese.” I was in Bangkok, boarding my most recent flight to
Beijing on a transit from Singapore. The passengers were mostly Chinese
and the queue to board the airplane was random disorganized at best.
The angry American was coming to China on business for what I am sure
were six long, miserable weeks. Clearly not all of this guy's baggage
was suitcases, if you know what I mean, but I think he was a pretty
good example of how you can end up if you don't learn to roll with the
cultural punches.
If you haven't spent time in Asia, be prepared. Very little English is
spoken away from the central business district. Although it's
modernizing fast, Beijing still has a lot of third-world grime, dust
and odors. Much of the food is shockingly oily. Public transportation
is crowded and, often, uncomfortable. Queuing (lining up for things) is
an inexact science. People might seem rude and brusque at first glance.
Service may sometimes seem appalling (although it can be surprisingly
good at times). You're a foreigner, so sometimes you'll pay more for
stuff.
Relax. Things just don't work the same here, and you have to have
patience, tolerance and open-mindedness. Chinese social idiosyncrasies
are as valid as American ones. Treat discovery of those idiosyncrasies
as a cross-cultural adventure and you'll have a good time. If you
expect things to work like they do at home or are quick to get
frustrated or angry, you'll end up culture-shocked and miserable like
my fellow traveler in Bangkok. Beijing is fascinating, generally
inexpensive and great fun. Western comforts are easy to find once you
know where to look. It is much more accessible and easy to get around
than I thought it would be. In general I have found Chinese people to
be friendly, enthusiastic about speaking Mandarin, and engaging and
curious about me and my country.
Some of this stuff seems obvious, but my own Wordlink roommate wrestled
with a lot of these issues while he was in China. He was a great guy
with good Mandarin skills from university, but this was his first time
outside the US and I think a lot what he experienced here took him by
surprise. There is no real way to know if you’ll like it or not before
you arrive. Buy a good guidebook and read it thoroughly before you get
on the plane. Track down people who have spent time in China and talk
to them.
Classes
This is what you are coming for, so I'll spend the most time on it.
Worldlink classes consist of three sessions: Speaking, comprehension
and listening. Normally these are taught by different instructors, and
each session uses a different BLCU text provided by Worldlink. You have
two of the three sessions each day, varying over the week. Speaking and
comprehension provide the backbone of vocabulary and grammar while the
listening course uses cassettes to get you used to hearing and
understanding native speakers. I strongly advise going to the BLCU
bookstore, near Worldlink, and buying your own set of the cassettes for
your listening session. The entire set for one textbook costs about 80
yuan (US$10). If you take the “intensive” course there is an additional
afternoon session which is mostly extra reading and vocabulary.
The professors are mostly retired BLCU instructors and the instruction
is Asian in style, which means a lot of working through the book by
rote and not too much creativity. Homework consists of book exercises
and memorizing vocabulary and characters. Different instructors
encourage different amounts of discussion in class, but, generally,
there is a serious lack of useful conversation time.
You are expected to use language exchange partners or tuition for
conversation, but there was a chronic shortage of tutors at Worldlink
while I was there. Language exchange partners are local students who
swap their Mandarin coaching for your English. If you're lucky, as I
was, you can get a great one who will become a good local friend. If
you are unlucky, you'll get someone who was roped in by being invited
to a party where “there will be foreigners” and who has no real idea
what he or she is getting into. Several of my friends' language
partners were recruited in this way. There is no shortage of energetic
local students advertising to be tutors and language exchange partners,
so if Worldlink isn't providing what you need, don't be afraid to
swallow the modest cost and strike out on your own. If you want to
progress, there is no substitute for speaking Chinese to locals.
If you already have some Mandarin, Worldlink will give you a placement
test when you arrive. It's one-page, and no one actually speaks to you.
One page is no basis for assessing someone's language skills. If you're
having a bad day with your characters, or if there is some key
vocabulary in the reading passage that trips you up, you get
downgraded. If you've encountered the parable in the reading passage
before and can explain it, you get placed high. To Worldlink's credit,
you can shift classes. They say you can do this during the first week,
but they are fairly flexible about it throughout. If you feel
uncomfortable with the level of the class you are in at any time, don't
be afraid to ask to change up or down.
Worldlink does not offer all course levels all the time, and they
shoehorn a lot of students into the next-best class level. A good
friend of mine was not willing to settle for next-best, and browbeat
Worldlink into opening a new class at his level. That was fortunate for
me since I ended up joining him after spending one weeks in a course
that was too easy and then another week in one that was too hard.
But we learned another lesson: Worldlink's quality of instructors
varies wildly. Some are truly fantastic. Some are complete no-hopers.
One friend of mine had his Mandarin skills ridiculed in class by his
teacher. Not a constructive approach to instruction. Our new instructor
was friendly and well meaning, but he had a complete inability to
explain vocabulary and grammar in Mandarin, which some of the
instructors are very good at. He also had not been trained for the
listening class and had apparently never operated a cassette player
before. There were some tragicomic moments as my friend and I used our
bad Mandarin skills to explain to him how he was supposed to teach us.
Again to Worldlink's credit, they eventually replaced him with a
significantly better instructor with whom I enjoyed studying. But it
took a second round of furious lobbying and threats by my energetic
classmate. All in, the first three weeks of my twelve week program were
something of a write-off. Bear this in mind if you are coming for a
month-long program.
Students come to Worldlink for varying lengths of time, and the people
in a class can change with time. In the nine weeks after I finalized my
class our group ranged from two students to nine. I spent the final
three weeks as the sole student in the class, which was at once useful
and trying. Four to six people is very comfortable. Much above six and
no one person gets to participate much in class. If there are more than
ten people in your class at Beijing Chinese Language Academy, complain
loud and hard. You are paying extra to avoid BLCU's large classes.
Often the students have substantially different skill levels. That is
not necessarily bad, but it can be frustrating for everyone involved at
times. More frustrating, motivation levels can vary dramatically from
people who are driven to learn to complete tourists who cut most of
their classes and only manage to slow class down at the odd times they
show up. We had a one student who was in our class for one month during
which he attended six times and contributed nothing but carbon dioxide
and surplus body heat.
I spoke to a lot of my friends and classmates about their experiences
in Worldlink classes. Opinions ranged from those who felt it was
tremendous experience to those who felt it was a total waste of time.
On average my friends thought their classes were OK, but were
disappointed because they felt that the classes could be significantly
better. Better instructors, more conversation and less rote book-work
were what many of them wanted.
There is no doubt that you can learn from the Beijing Chinese Language
Academy classes taught at Worldlink. I did. But use the classes a
springboard to get vocabulary and grammar. You'll gain much more actual
speaking and listening ability from talking to locals, whether they are
language exchange partners, tutors, taxi drivers or shopkeepers, than
you will from the classes.
Accommodation
My experience was great. I had asked for a three-person apartment, but
demand was high with the rush of students returning to Beijing after
SARS and I was “upgraded” to a two person apartment. The apartment
complex, Huaqing Jiayuan (Leisure Garden), was in a neighborhood called
Wudaokou. At first I was alarmed by how far the apartment was from the
school, nearly four kilometers. But I rapidly got over that.
The apartment was clean, modern and spacious, if not overly stylish.
Despite a very odd smell from the drains in the shower, it was a long
way from the roach-infested pit I had mentally prepared myself for.
Wudaokou was a great neighborhood to live in, with dozens of bars,
restaurants, outdoor beer gardens, coffee houses and shops. A subway
station right across from the apartment provided easy access to
downtown. School was a ten minute bus ride away, but for most of the
summer I walked the forty minutes to and from school. It was hot and
dusty, but not unpleasant.
There were a few issues in the apartment that you should prepare for.
Although there was a fine fridge and microwave, total cookware
consisted of a frying pan, a cleaver and a cutting board. Dishes were
four bowls and eight chopsticks. Fortunately, the supermarket
downstairs had a fine assortment of ridiculously cheap kitchenware.
Also, in Beijing you often prepay for your power, which I didn't know
at the time. Although that was supposed to be taken care of for us, our
power went out a couple of times, requiring frantic calls to the
landlady, Worldlink etc.
Worldlink's website also made a few unsupported claims about the
apartments. For instance, it says that “all apartments have Internet
access”. It would better read, “Internet access can be arranged in all
apartments.” It's not hard to do, but you do have to pay for it
yourself (80 yuan a month for broadband). Also, the website says that
all rooms have desks and chairs. Well, I got to the apartment first, so
I claimed the master bedroom, which did have a desk and a chair. My
roommate was in the microscopic second bedroom, which fate he accepted
with good cheer. But he had no desk or chair. The apartment also didn't
include the promised DVD player, but my roommate wasted no time prying
one out of Worldlink. Ultimately, I was very comfortable there.
Some of my friends who had opted for the dormitories were not so lucky.
The dorms are rudimentary but serviceable, but they were also full. The
overflow was placed in the Chengfu Hotel, right off of Beijing's fourth
ring road, about two kilometers from campus. The Chengfu was, not to
put too fine a point on it, popular with the local whores. It was an
adventure for male and female students alike. It didn't have either the
convenience of the dormitories or the charm of Wudaokou.
Some students opt to stay at the Xijiao Hotel, also in Wudaokou. I put
my father up there when he was visiting Beijing, and I have nothing bad
to report.
Home stays with Chinese families are another option, and I can't really
comment on them much since I didn't do one myself. I will tell you that
my friends who did home stays had mixed experiences. Some thought it
was great, some thought it was weird and uncomfortable. Based on what I
have heard, I will tell you this: The language benefits of a home stay
are real (see “Immersion” below). But be prepared to gamble a bit on
the quality of your family, and be ready to surrender some privacy and
independence regardless. If your situation is uncomfortable, ask
Worldlink to move you.
Fellow Students
My fellow students were the best part of my Worldlink experience. In
three months in the program there I made many very good friends, some
of whom I hope to stay in touch with. The ready-made social group is
hard to beat when you come to a new city, especially one where there
can be difficult to make local friends quickly. People were friendly,
supportive and fun.
They were, on average, younger than me. I was the rare mid-career
professional, at the creaky age of 36. Many of my classmates were
college students or grad students, with the occasional 30 something and
one or two older people. But we were all strangers in Beijing, and I
found it very natural to form friendships with people.
Having a group made it that much easier to navigate restaurants,
explore the city, be tourists, share experiences, and generally survive
three months in a strange place without feeling stranded. Having moved
back to Beijing to work just two weeks ago, I miss that ready-made
group of friends, and I feel much more isolated.
Immersion
The trade-off of the social group is that Worldlink is not “immersion”
in Chinese. I was constantly surrounded by English speakers, and hung
out with English speakers in my spare time. For a while, I worried
about this. “Don't take anyone to Beijing who will speak English with
you,” said my tutor in Singapore (who is from Beijing). Well, I didn't
need to take anyone with me. I found them all there. But I think the
trade off of immersion for the support and fun of great was worth it.
You can immerse yourself a bit more with a home stay, if you like. But
unless you are relentlessly dedicated to speaking Mandarin all the
time, you'll end up speaking English to your classmates anyway,
especially if you want any kind of social life.
There are some non-Worldlink programs that pledge students to speaking
nothing but Mandarin. Whatever works for you. Immersion is great, but
there is plenty you can accomplish by simply making the most of
opportunities to speak the language. My fellow-students and I had a
series of “speak Mandarin” dinners where we spoke in Chinese to each
other. But it seems a shame to limit all of your discourse to the
lowest, linguistic common denominator for three months. If you want to
immerse yourself, go backpacking on your own for a month through rural
China or get yourself an English teaching job in the sticks for six
months (not hard). Worldlink won't do it.
Extras
Worldlink promotes a few bells and whistles to flesh out their package,
including the weekend excursions and social outings, elective classes
and the student-lounge with Internet access. As with everything else
about Worldlink, it's a grab-bag of good and bad.
I never did any of the weekend trips, although they were very popular.
They seemed quite expensive to me for what they were (often 1500 yuan
or more for two days by train to Xian or Inner Mongolia, which is
deceptively close to Beijing). Often fifty, sixty or more students went
on the trips, and they were basically package tourism. Here is your
schedule. On the bus, off the bus, eat here, sleep there. If you don’t
mind that, go for it. A lot of people had good fun.
For places like the Great Wall, the Forbidden City and the Summer
Palace I suggest skipping the Worldlink trips and doing it on your own,
or with a small group of friends. It's easy to hire a driver and get to
those places and more fun to chart your own course when you're there.
I only did one elective, a course on Chinese character writing. It
covered stroke order and radicals. It was OK. I think the electives are
very hit-and-miss, and I didn't feel like I was sacrificing anything by
only taking up one of my allotted four.
As for the student lounge, the computers are full of spyware and tend
to run badly, but they do generally work. Think twice before accessing
your Internet banking. Demand is very high at peak hours (right before
class and right after). If you have a laptop, it's a better bet to
bring it and plug it into the Worldlink network. The lounge is often a
disaster area of pizza boxes and beer bottles. It's not so good for
lounging, but reasonably tolerable for checking your webmail and
meeting your friends before lunch.
Management and Organization
Worldlink is bang-up at processing your application and getting you
enrolled in the program. They will meet you at the airport, just like
they say they will. They will have someplace tolerable for you to stay.
The fundamentals work fine.
The devil is in the details, however. As an academic program, Worldlink
seems fairly haphazard. It all comes together in the end, but with
rough edges. As we learned, if you don't end up with the right class or
the right instructor, you need to be prepared to make things happen.
(Or, if you're like me, find a friend who is prepared to make things
happe). Things like tests and attendance are all fairly random, and
depend a great deal on the individual instructor.
Be prepared to be taken by surprise here and there, and to have to ask
to office to help you with things that you might feel they ought to
automatically take care of, like buying electricity for your apartment.
The upside is that the staff were generally very helpful when I did
have to ask for them to take care of things.
Was it worth it?
Unquestionably. If you want to come to study Chinese in Beijing,
Worldlink makes it easy. The courses, the accommodation, the visa
paperwork and the ready-made gang of friends are all taken care of.
It's the easiest way to get there, and it takes the burden of
organization out of your hands.
But you can expect some compromises in the classes and the quality of
service. That's the deal you make. I had a good experience, but I
worked hard to speak Mandarin with regular Chinese people on a daily
basis, and I had a head-start on the language. I also knew exactly what
I wanted to get out of being in Beijing for three months, and I
achieved that. Even though that didn’t all have to do with Worldlink,
they served the purpose I needed and so I feel good about the
experience. Not everyone felt the same. My roommate thought the whole
thing was a poor second to his Duke University language program of the
year before.
It would be easy to come to Worldlink and piss the time away and not
learn much, or to be scandalized by a poor experience and give up on it
(which some people do). You're paying a lot considering the local
costs, so be willing to go to the mat with Worldlink to get your
money's worth if you feel jerked around. Be clear about what you want
to get out of the experience and do what you need to in order to
achieve that. Come into it with your eyes open and can be worth your
while.
If you have any other questions about my experience at Worldlink, you
can contact me through the comment form below, or via the “contact”
link in my blog links. Include your e-mail in the web address space or
message body if you want a private reply.
-WM