Wednesday, October 12, 2005 10:40 AM
by
will
How to Survive a Chinese Drinking Party
Imagethief is in Shenzhen, supporting a Japanese client company at the
Seventh Annual China High Technology Exposition, currently occupying a
huge amount of space at one of Shenzhen's two convention halls (our
first taxi driver took us to the wrong convention center this morning).
We're also staying at one of two hotels with nearly identical names,
which caused us some problems yesterday. Shenzhen is a confusing town.
It's extra confusing when you're drunk. After a hard day's teeing up
interviews for our client with the Chinese media, they invited us to a
lavish dinner at the Beihai Fishing Village Restaurant. Like all Asian
dinner parties, it was really an excuse to drink ruinously and publicly
shame friends and colleagues. A free flow of lethal Chinese brandy and
beer was arranged. Thankfully, delicate Japanese sensibilities (I
presume) kept baijiu, China's liver-and brain-dissolving white spirit, off the list.
Despite their often-reported political and cultural schisms, the
Japanese and Chinese share one thing in common: they love social
drinking. It's the time when protocol hits the road and everyone
becomes loudly friendly, until they pass out. This shared interest
notwithstanding, I was interested to see a clear segregation of
Japanese executives at one table (with one Japanese speaking Chinese
manager) and Chinese and Imagethief at a second table (with two
Japanese executives). Given that one Japanese executive at my table
spoke both English and Chinese, it may have been simple linguistic
segregation rather than some kind of spooky, racial arrangement.
The national table arrangements didn't stop much cordial toasting back
and forth. Yours truly was seated next to a young Chinese executive who
spoke passable English and was both friendly and, apparently,
interested in seeing exactly how much alcohol would go down an
American's throat before his head exploded.
I learned a valuable lesson tonight. These kinds of ganbei
toast-o-ramas are not tests of your drinking abilities. They are tests
of your wits. The contest is not who can drink the most or hold their
liquor the best. The test is who can slyly cajole his friends and
colleagues into drinking more than he does. It’s all about duplicity,
challenges, evasions, filling the glasses of people in the bathrooms,
and gentle belittlement to encourage people to risk alcohol poisoning.
Imagethief is a quick study. I rapidly sent my brandy glass away, as
just having it in front of me was going to result in my painful and
premature death. I also never let the waitress fill my beer glass more
than halfway, and often stopped her at a third. That way I was never
far from a gan bei (dry glass). I went over and toasted the
other table as a group to pre-empt them coming over and toasting me one
by one (the lone white boy is always a toast-magnet). Finally, I drank
1.5 liters of water during the evening, in addition to my liquor, as
good hydration helps to mitigate both drunkenness and, especially,
hangovers.
While I was employing these tactics I observed various other forms of
duplicity, including toasting beer against brandy; diluting beer with
water; toast deflection (finding someone more worthy of a toast
than you - this often victimized the women) and, the coup de grace,
one Japanese executive actually pretending to be passed out at the
table. He somehow managed a miraculous recovery when it was time to
walk to the bus.
I figure I earned a B- for my performance. I was called out for sending
my brandy glass back after three shots, but managed to go
toast-for-toast with my beers and sacrificed only a moderate amount of
face. One Chinese executive who upbraided me for quaffing water was
doing the same thing ten minutes later. I was never caught dumping or
cutting liquor, and I never shied from a toast that was offered me. I
am still sober enough to write this, and should be borderline
functional tomorrow. Which, in PR, is par for the course.
But I'll probably be sleeping in the bathroom tonight as I get rid of
that liter and a half of water. Nothing in this world comes free.
Coda: It is now the next morning. There is nothing sadder than a
bunch of hung-over executives slinking around an incredibly noisy and
hot convention floor. That might be the definition of hell.